Because of reasons, I recently needed to get a greyscale image and randomize the values of the different greys in the image. I couldn’t be bothered doing it all by hand, so I wrote another mini tool to do it for me.
This tool will get all the different greyscale values in your image and replace them with new randomized ones. It can be used to make lots of permutations of greyscale images, in case for some reason you ever wanted to do that.
Download the tool here.
On Windows 7, Xbox One controllers are a bit hit and miss. It’s extremely likely that you will plug in your controller and get no response. There is a consistent solution on this reddit page, but that page is the only location on the entire internet where a proper fix is provided. In the case that this page disappears for any reason, I want to duplicate the solution here.
The problem: Xbox One controllers need some drivers to run natively, and these are usually not installed on PCs prior to getting the controller itself. The drivers are distributed through windows update, so it’s likely that you don’t have them.
The fix: These are the two updates you need:
User-Mode Driver Framework version 1.11 Link: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2685813
Kernel-Mode Driver Framework version 1.11 Link: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2685811
In case these downloads ever go dark, I’m mirroring the files here:
Install one kmdf and one umdf; there are 64 bit and 32 bit versions.
Remember to thank reddit user TheNut007.
During development of rocket reaction, it became necessary to get a tileset we had already created and extend a 1px border around every tile to give us some buffer zone in the renderer we were using.
This kind of edge is known as bleeding, and can be necessary sometimes.
I couldn’t be arsed doing the whole tileset by hand, so I made a tool to do it for me, and I’m putting it up for download here.
Enjoy an easy way to fix your tilesets in incredibly niche situations!
A better explanation of how to split a jewel case than what I’ve seen so far on the web.
To begin with, it can make it easier to remove the case lid (although it’s not necessary). The lid is attached with pins that you can flex outwards to pull apart.
Slide a nail in here to separate the pin from the rest of the case.
With the actual case inset, the important thing to note is these pins holding it:
There is also one more pin on the other side
You’ll need to pull the pins out of their slots, and then move the inset up and out of the case while the pins are clear. I find it’s easiest to start on the outside pins. So slide a nail in between the inset and case at the blue mark and try to hold them apart; at the same time get a nail underneath the case floor at the green mark and when the pins are clear, pop it up and out of the case.
Now do the same on the other side. I usually hold it at these points:
When it’s clear at all the pins, it should come up freely.
After replacing the paper or whatever it is you’re doing, putting the inset back in is much easier. It should just snap into the right place.